Slave Settings for Nikon SB-600 Speedlight

I finally had a chance to take some pictures of my SB-600.  Here's my instructions on how to set the Nikon SB-600 Speedlight as a slave flash.

My SB-600 flash with normal settings:

SB-600 normal display (P7100)

Press the "Zoom" and "-" buttons simultaneously and hold until the CSM setting mode displays.  Then press the "-" or the "+" to get to the wireless connection setting.  This will appear as a squiggly "z" shaped arrow and displays "OFF" by default:  

SB-600 showing wireless communication is Off  (P7100)

Press the "Mode" button once to change from "OFF" to "ON":

SB-600 showing wireless communication is On (P7100)

Press the Power "ON/OFF" button to exit the CSM setting mode.  The display will now show the SB-600 in slave mode with CH set to 3 and Group set to A (default settings):

SB-600 set to slave on Channel 3 and Group A (P7100)

Once my SB-600 is set to slave, the flash will remain powered on and ready to go.  Red LED lights will blink until I take a picture and then continue to blink afterwards.  Also the SB-600 will make a chime sound when I take a picture to let me know that the flash was fired.  Nice!



Here is my new SB-700 Speedlight.  It is set to Master and would be installed on my D7000.  On the lower right, is the On/Off/Slave/Master toggle and button switch.  To set this flash to Master, I press and hold the round button while moving the toggle to Master.  Here's what the display settings look like:

SB-700 set as Master (P7100)

In the above picture, you can see that I've set my Group A flash exposure setting to -1.00 EV and the (M)aster set to 0.0EV.  Group B flash exposure is showing "---" as there are no flashes being used for this group.  Pressing the "SEL" button several times allows me to move between the different fields displayed.  I use the rotating dial (around the OK button) to make my changes.  Once I make the appropriate changes, I just press the "OK" button to accept the changes.  Now I'm ready to take my pictures.

My next adventure will be to use my D7000 DSLR as the commander or master flash and then set my SB-700 as a slave as well as my SB-600.  Stay tuned!

Pictures were taken with my Nikon Coolpix P7100 and Nikon SB-400 flash.

Gadget: ExpoDisc...a True Winner

I received a new toy...an ExpoDisc by ExpoImaging.  It's a White Balance (WB) incident tool that eliminates the need for post-production color or WB adjustments.  With the ExpoDisc I can set a custom WB in my camera, shoot a WB reference frame to be used later in my photo editing software, or I can use it to set the exposure.

My 77mm ExpoDisc with the outside facing up

There's two sides to this ExpoDisc.  On what I consider the inside is a flat plain white filter.

Plain side of the ExpoDisc with included lanyard

I put this side against my lens.  I then set my camera to WB Pre-Set (or custom) and take a picture at my light source with the ExpoDisc covering the lens.  Basically, I'm taking an "incident reading" of the light source.  After the WB shot is taken, my camera is ready to take a picture.  

ExpoDisc place against the lens (picture from ExpoImaging site)

I took the following picture before setting up my custom WB:

WB set to Auto (without ExpoDisc)

Here's the results after using this nifty WB ExpoDisc gadget:

WB set to Pre-Set or custom (with ExpoDisc)

More test shots:

ExpoDisc with WB set to Auto 

ExpoDisc with WB set to custom using the ExpoDisc

Can you see the difference?  This device is so easy to use and so far, I think it's the best WB tool.  Each ExpoDisc is hand calibrated and certified for neutrality.  Included in the box was a quality control card.  My ExpoDisc was certified at 17.85% light transmission (close enough to the 18% neutrality).  Also in the box was a nylon case (storage) and a woven lanyard (wear the disc around my neck).

The disc comes in several different lens sizes.  I purchased one of the larger sizes (77mm) to accommodate my largest lens or future lens.  When I use my smaller lens, I just place and hold the ExpoDisc against the lens and take a picture.

Note:  the only post production I did was to crop the photos and add my copyright.  Pictures were taken without flash and in a room with incandescent lighting.

Here's a link to the ExpoImagining site.  Here you will find a few videos on how to use the ExpoDisc.  It's pretty cool!

Nikon CLS (Master and Slave)...My First Studio Shot

This evening I was staying out of hubby's way.  He was working on his sermon for tomorrow's service.  I decided to pull out my Nikon flashes and try out the Nikon Creative Flash System or CLS.  I did an informal studio setup.  Nothing elaborate.

I had my SB-600 with a medium size softbox on a tripod.  My new SB-700, attached with my Gary Fong Lightsphere was perched on my camera on another tripod.  I placed the SB-600 (slave) to one side and turned the flash head/softbox up towards the ceiling.  My camera was turned sideways (portrait) and the SB-700 (master) flash head was turned up towards the ceiling as well.  

I had to program my SB-600 as a slave.  Not having any instruction book handy, I just played with a couple buttons.  Okay, not knowing what all the icons and symbols meant...I headed over to my buddy Google.com and found what I needed.  I made the change on my flash to slave and it gave me the default channel 3 and group A.  

I configured my SB-700 to master which entailed holding down a button and turning the flash on to Master on the dial.  That was way too simple.  I tried a test flash with the master flash and noticed my slave wasn't going off.  Hmmmmm.  I remembered the number 3 and the letter A from the slave flash default setting.  I looked at the settings again on the master and noticed it was on channel 1.  A quick change to channel 3 and I was all set.  

It took several shots before I finally got the hang of taking a self portrait using the two flashes.  Here's my first studio test shot.  

BTW, I also used my corded remote control to take the pictures.  All I had to do was plug it into my camera and it was ready to go.  

I'm just having way too much fun!

Learning Something New...White Balance and Histogram

While I was visiting my local camera shop, the topic of White Balance came up in conversation.  I never thought too much about it as I leave my D7k on WB-Auto.  I have noticed that my pictures sometimes come out with a blue-ish tint and sometimes with a yellowish tint.  Different light sources have different "colors" or light temperatures.  Sometimes I can see it on my camera's LCD while I'm previewing my pictures...it's mostly the blue that I see.  Most of the time I see it on my computer screen.

My brother had at one time mentioned that I need to check my histogram on the pictures I take.  Something about the peaks of the bell-looking curve should be in the middle.  Most of my pictures come out with the peaks towards the left or somewhere in between.  I know the histogram represents the light and dark elements of my picture...the exposure.

After doing some research, I'm finding that the left side of the histogram represents or suggests that my pictures tend to have shadows and dark areas.  That is true.  I have learned that my D7k tends to overexpose in outdoor light.  So, I step down on my camera exposure setting.  Sometimes, I have to do some post-production processing to brighten my picture.  Better to do that than have an overexposed picture that I cannot fix.

In the histogram, the middle scale represents "gray" while the left represents "black" and "white" represents the right side.  Makes sense.  I need to work on getting my pictures' histogram reading towards the middle or mid-gray.

I believe learning about White Balance or WB will help me get there.  I purchased an inexpensive Lastolite Ezybalance Color Calibration card.  It's a 12" flexible screen that is white on one side and 18% gray on the other side.  I set my D7K to a "custom" WB mode and take a picture of the white calibration card in the light setting where I'll be taking a picture.  My camera stores the WB picture and settings.  It's that simple.  My camera is ready to take a picture with the new custom WB setting I just created.  If my lighting changes, I'll need to redo my WB setting.  My camera remembers the last WB setting I created.  If I want to void the setting, I just switch my camera back to WB-Auto.

I'm still in practice mode.  I'll be back to post the results of my test shots.

Simple Flash Techniques with My D7000 and SB-600

Photography is art.  When I look through my camera's viewfinder, I'm looking for art.  The camera is my tool.  I can adjust the zoom, aperture, shutter speed, and produce something creative.  Something of my own.

A tool that I use with my camera is an external flash.  This changes the mood, light, and colors I see.

The Nikon SB-600 flash is a great all around external flash to use.  I've used it with my D40, D5000, and D7000 cameras.  While the SB-600 feels cumbersome and bulky on my D40, it feels well balanced with my D7k.

What's included with the SB-600?  A plastic flash stand to mount on a tripod and use as a slave flash, a soft case, and a sliding diffuser that's built into the flash head.

The accessories I've purchased for my SB-600 include a StoFen Diffuser and a Gary Fong Lightsphere (Cloud).  Both products work well.  When I use my flash, I always have the StoFen attached.  It softly diffuses the harsh projected light.  I've experimented with the GF Lightsphere and use it primarily for portraits and taking pictures of flowers.  It's best used for up close pictures.

The first year I had my SB-600, I used the flash straight on.  I didn't know any better.  I noticed huge shadows appeared behind my subjects.  I also noticed a lot of red-eyes.  As you can imagine, a lot of my pictures were blown out.  The flash was too bright...even with the flash exposure set to 0.  It was frustrating.  I didn't like my pictures.



Sto-Fen Diffuser:

I started doing some research and noticed a lot of photographers were using diffusers.  That's when I bought this Sto-Fen Diffuser made for the SB-600.  It sits over the flash head and diffuses/spreads the light over a wider surface area.  It lessons the shadows (some are still there but not as pronounced) and softens the light on the subject.  I was happy with the results I was getting, but I was still getting some red-eyes.

I then played around with the flash head.  Moving it straight up to bounce off the ceiling.  Moving it around (swiveling on the base) and point the flash head behind me towards a wall.  Bouncing the flash reduces the harsh light directed at the subject.  I'm not a technical person when it comes to photography.  If one is interested in knowing the technical aspects of external flashes and the bounce techniques, I would research this on Google.

This is my typical flash setup with the flash head pointed slightly upwards

I used this setup when I take portrait pictures and I turn the camera sideways

When I don't want a lot of flash (softer light), I will bounce the flash behind me towards a wall or ceiling

After experimenting with the movements of the flash head, I noticed something else was missing or lacking in my pictures.  Sometimes the flash was still too bright.  I've learned to play with the adjustments right on the flash itself.  While my camera exposure remains at 0 (zero), I've learned to tweak the flash settings.  Many times I've been inside a dark house, room, or church setting and the flash pushes out immense light...even when bouncing off the walls or ceiling.  I've learned to adjust the flash exposure down.  Typically for portraits and still life, I will adjust the flash down to -0.7.

My typical external flash settings I use.  I press the "-" button until I get to -0.7

When I take pictures of my artwork, the -0.7 setting on my flash will produce a harsh glare on my paintings.  I've had to adjust the flash down further to -1.0 and sometimes -1.3.  

Again, press the "-" button until I get to -1.0

If I just want some soft lighting, I will go all the way down to -2.0.  

Pressing the "-" to get to -2.0 for just some soft lighting from the flash

All this depends on how far away you are standing from your subjects.  The settings above are good for distances of 5-10 feet from your subject.  If you are further away, you will need to up the flash exposure...possibly going up to +0.7 or even +1.0.  I hardly ever have to go in the + side of exposure.


Note:  pictures were taken with my Nikon D40 and SB-400 external flash:

My 4 year old D40 used to take the pictures for this post.  It's my back up camera.  This camera has taken over 15,000 pictures and still produces beautiful colors!

A Chris-Myth Busters Musical...A Picture Taking Event

I am so behind in my photography posts.  It appears I won't be doing my technical posts until closer to Christmas weekend...which is coming up soon!  I'll have a few days off from work and can spend some quality time taking pictures and examples.

In the meantime, I do have pictures from a Christmas musical/play from our church last Saturday.  I was the "designated" photographer and had my space up and front and center.  Picture this...center aisle bull-pen.  The director, the videographer, and I were holed up in the bull-pen.  I thought I would be able to "walk up and down" the bull-pen to get some close-ups and some further back wide-angle shots.  Well...I was able to get a lot of close-ups.  I somehow got stuck in the front as the videographer and the director moved their seats and equipment closer to the center aisle.  I was blocked in.  Not a bad thing.  I had to make do with the 2'x2' area and the tiny kindergarten chair as my seat (so my head wasn't blocking the video camera).  It was all in fun.

I only had time to attend the last quick dress rehearsal they had for that week and took practice pictures (lights and settings).  I didn't have the whole program in my head and ended up being surprised during the actual program.

When the lights were dimmed, my trusty D7k and my gut instincts took over.


To my immediate right, the kids popped up and stood in their chairs and sang:

These cute kids were standing on their tiny chairs: angels, wise men and women, & shepherds
32mm, f4.0, 1/125, ISO 2200

Getting closer...
44mm, f4.5, 1/125, ISO 2200

...and closer
120mm, f5.3, 1/80, ISO 3200

The actual play took place over towards the center and to my right:

26mm, f3.8, 1/125, ISO 3200

This was a very cute moment during the musical:

18mm, f3.5, 1/50, ISO 3200

Check out the shadow in the background:

22mm, f3.8, 1/60, ISO 3200

Of course, the kids enjoyed the spotlight:

18mm, f3.5, 1/100, ISO 3200

I took a picture of the poster the night before:

24mm, f3.8, 1/80, ISO 3200

And after the musical/play, the cast members posed for me:  

18mm, f3.5, 1/125, ISO 2800

The director with his flashlight (rehearsals):

Lights out!
40mm, f4.5, 1/125, ISO 560

A beautiful performance during rehearsals:

18mm, f3.5, 1/40, ISO 3200

I didn't have too much difficulty with the lighting and getting the shots I wanted.  I left my camera on P-mode.  My exposure was set to 0 (zero).  Normally I would bump the exposure up or down slightly, but the spotlights were bright enough to leave it at 0.  The metering mode I use mostly is center-weighted average.  I also primarily use single focus point which allows me to move the focus point around before taking a picture.

I've tried using the multiple focus points (e.g. d9, d21, d39, and auto) and had frustrating results.  I stick with single (e.g. s) point  and I can control where the lens should focus.

Even though I had my external SB-600 flash with me, I did not have to use it at all.

I took 200+ pictures during the musical/play and had only a handful that were not useable.  Not bad, huh?